We had wine on our minds. Then we got a
little hungry, so we staged a raid on the cheese case at Irvington's
Foster & Dobbs specialty foods store. What should you pair with an
Oregon pinot noir? Five tasters put eight wildly varied types of hard
and soft Oregon goat cheese through a blind taste-off. Here are the
cheesemakers' claims and our tasting notes.
Pur Et Simple
Goldin Artisan Goat Cheese, Molalla, $30 per pound.
They say:
âA slightly cakey paste that nonetheless breaks down unctuously in the mouth.â
We say:
âA runny, goopy cheese.â
âIt has a certain goatiness to it, but itâs not as strong as I would want it to be.â
Capricorns
Tumalo Farms, Bend, $32.50 per pound.
They say:
âThe occasional pop of pepper just accentuates the smooth flavor.â
We say:
âThe flavorâs so strong that itâs pointless to pair it with wine.â
âThis would make a great grilled cheese.â
Tumalo Tomme
Juniper Grove Farm, Redmond, $27.95 per pound.
They say:
âPleasantly salty with a sweet, slightly nutty flavor that lingers.â
We say:
âThis oneâs a flop.â
âSharp in a bad way. Acidic
and yuck.â
Redmondo
Juniper Grove Farm, Redmond, $31.95 per pound.
They say:
âTerrific for noshing, grating over pasta and shaving onto salads.â
We say:
âTastes like baking soda, or toothpaste.â
âI wouldnât put this on anything I liked.â
Cascadian Frechette
Goldin Artisan Goat Cheese, Molalla, $30 per pound.
They say:
âPair with crisp, light, effervescent whites that wonât overpower this delicate cheese.â
We say:
âA damn fine cheese. Itâs soft but has rich flavor.â
âThis is what I want on my Little Big Burger.â
Cumin Tomme
Juniper Grove Farm, Redmond, $28.95 per pound.
They say:
âSubtle hints of cumin fly by on the finish of this grassy tomme.â
We say:
âTastes like it was left out in the sun, in the dirt.â
âA goaty-ass cheese.â
Certoux
Goldin Artisan Goat Cheese, Molalla, $30 per pound.
They say:
âTangy and bright with a delicious saltiness and wisps of wet stone and mineral flavors.â
We say:
âGoes well with wine.â
âRefreshing; almost like an after-dinner palate cleanse, but not in the toothpaste way.â
Tomme Cuivrée
Goldin Artisan Goat Cheese, Molalla, $30 per pound.
They say:
âThe supple paste has a rich mouthfeel under the slightly toothsome thin rind.â
We say:
âNice texture. Creamy, with beautiful edges and a nice crust.â
âGood with a little red.â
OUR PICK:
WWeek 2015