12590 SW 1st St., Beaverton, 643-5388. Dinner and late-night Monday-Saturday.

This nondescript venue in an easy-to-miss storefront at the periphery of old downtown Beaverton has been slinging late-night Korean food for more than a decade. Get a seat near the kitchen and watch a veritable squadron of cooks perform a hypnotic line dance before steaming cauldrons and red-hot saute pans. The draw here has always been the noodle dishes ($8-$12), founded on thick, gnarled wheat noodles stir fried with meat and vegetables, spiced and hand-pulled to order. Until you learn your way, go conservative on your spice order and supplement with Sriracha or gochujang available on request. Beyond noodles, sample liberally from dumplings, seafood salads, fried rice, stir-fries, and grilled items: Few dishes top $10.