Restaurant Guide 2013: Oven and Shaker

1134 NW Everett St., 241-1600,

[BOOZY NEAPOLITAN] On the east side, the better pizza joints tend to shutter by 10 pm. But on the west side, thanks to this royally pedigreed Pearl District spot—run by Nostrana chef-owner Cathy Whims, restaurant mogul Kurt Huffman and Aviation Gin co-founder/bartender extraordinaire Ryan Magarian—the pizzaioli sling pies until midnight. (I don't know about you, but after that point I'm content with Lonesome's or Sizzle Pie, thank you very much). Oven and Shaker's pizzas are some of the best in the city, 12-inch pies with a thin and tangy sourdough crust that emerge from the wood-burning oven perfectly blistered. While the base is authentically Neapolitan, the toppings are blissfully untraditional, with pork belly popping up on a pie with sweet roasted corn, creamy mascarpone and poblano peppers or juicy blackberries joining forces with peaches, farmy goat cheese and peppery arugula. That boldness is matched—and sometimes bested—by the first-rate drink menu, which gets creative with ingredients like maple syrup and yellow bell pepper juice. With a stable of fenced-off sidewalk tables and a sleekly organized interior, it's a place very much at home in the Pearl, but with pizzas and potables good enough to draw diners from all over the city.

Ideal meal: Nostrana salad (a radicchio Caesar), spicy salami pizza drizzled with honey, any of the excellent cocktails.

Best deal: Margherita or tomato pizza at happy hour ($7) with a $3 beer.

Pro tip: Sunday through Thursday, there's a late-night happy hour from 10 pm to midnight. Or tuck in for weekend brunch, with a pizza featuring ham, mozzarella, pecorino, leeks and duck egg.

11:30 am-midnight daily. $$.


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