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7202 SE Milwaukie Ave., 236-0008. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday, dinner Sunday.
Words won't do justice to Papaya Thai—just go to Sellwood and see for yourself. Courteous and friendly service will guide you through the courses, from crispy spring rolls ($4.50) and delectable satay ($5.95) to unforgettable tom kha gai ($6.95), coconut soup with lemongrass. For entrees, it's all about mountains of scrumptious pad Thai ($6.50-$7.95) and sweet massamun curry ($6.50-$7.95). Get some boxes to leave room for dessert—bite-sized bits of fried banana with chocolate or coconut sauce ($4.95) before you call someone to wheel you home. (KS)
Paradox Palace Cafe
3439 SE Belmont St., 232-7508. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.
Even though it's nestled in the heart of Hipsterville, you don't need a neck tattoo or two watches on each wrist to enjoy a hearty repast at Paradox. They specialize in vegan and veggie offerings, but meat eaters won't feel left out. The Country Comfort breakfast ($8.95) is indeed a "Huge Plate-o-Food" compete with two eggs (or tofu), two sausages (chicken or veggie), potatoes and their signature, finger-lickin' almond gravy over biscuits. Add a yummy Paradox waffle ($3.95) and they'll have to roll you home. (ID)
Pasta Bangs
Conscientious meets delicious: Owner Polly Bangs employs homeless and disadvantaged youth in entry-level positions at North Mississippi's most bangin' place to pop plate after plate of hot pasta. While it may not sound like it, romantic, open-face booths for lovebirds and a candle-lit bar for friends and flings make this stylish hideout a jewel, not a joint. And sophisticated entrees echo the restaurant's sumptuous decor. For the full effect, try the mussels in a tasty tomato vodka sauce over fat, fresh pappardelle noodles ($10.50) or the hot and spicy sausage and roasted red-pepper pesto tossed with penne ($10). (JD)
Pastini
1426 NE Broadway, 288-4300; 2027 SE Division St., 595-6400; 1506 NW 23rd Ave., 595-1205. Lunch Monday-Saturday, dinner daily. Also lunch and dinner daily at 7307 SW Bridgeport Road, Suite B-105, Tigard, 718-2300.
This local chain offers a wide array of fresh-tasting Italian comfort food. A mozzed-up salad ($4.50-$6.95) topped with kalamata olives and sun-dried tomatoes is delicious, and a garlicky dressing adds punch to a simple spinach salad ($3.95-$6.75). Though the sea creatures in the spaghetti fra diavolo ($9.25) didn't score a knockout, the spicy tomato sauce had just the right flavor. Not only will you find plenty of pastas with chicken and meat, Pastini has a slew of veggie options, too. (JC)
Peanut Butter & Ellie's
4405 SW Vermont St., 282-1783. Breakfast Friday-Sunday, lunch and dinner daily.
Peanut Butter and Ellie's organic ingredients and kid-friendly menu take the worry out of feeding the rug rats. Young ones can enjoy a sandwich made with freshly ground (!) organic peanuts and locally produced marionberry jam ($3.50), while Mommy tucks into a veritable bucket of salad strewn with toasted hazelnuts, bleu cheese, pears and grapes ($8.50). While you wait for the food, toddle around and check out the Brio trains, books and toys that make this place a magnet for the under-6 set. The housemade veggie burger ($7.50) is the best in town, worth borrowing a kid for. (MW)
SECOND OPINION (from reviewer's daughter, Sage, age 6): The restaurant was good, but there were a lot of kids screaming and yelling. There is a little area for kids to play and a separate area to look at books in. I had macaroni and cheese. It was good. It was their secret recipe on how to make it with Tillamook cheese. There are a few other things on the list, including grilled cheese and peanut butter. (SF)
Pearl Bakery
102 NW 9th Ave., 827-0910. Breakfast and lunch daily.
Peanut Butter & Ellie's (above) aims right for the kid crowd, but you have to love a lofty establishment that also pays homage to the PB&J. This high-ceilinged, metropolitan-chic bakery's version is delightfully no-frills: peanut butter and Oregon raspberry preserves on house-baked Italian country-style bread ($1.50 half/$2 whole). Other brilliantly simple sandwiches include the olive-oilÐkissed tuna salad on a fresh French roll ($4) and the flavor-packed chevre and olive tapenade on a chewy demi-baguette ($2.50/$4). (KD)
Persian House
1026 SW Morrison St., 243-1430. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday.
Forget about a lunchtime menu for this quaint, downtown Mediterranean spot—before dinner, it's buffet-only. But don't shy away: $7.99 gets you heaps of salad, rice, rolls, and a smorgasbord of entrees, including famous roasted chicken. For supper, start with garlicky hummus ($3.99) or baba ghanouj ($4.99) before you move on to chicken with artichokes ($9.99) or some of the city's best meatballs ($9.99), housemade soup included. (KS)
Philadelphia's Steaks and Hoagies
6410 SE Milwaukie Ave., 239-8544. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.
So, you're an East Coaster stranded in the middle of something they refer to as "Northwest Cuisine." Well, hurry your ass over to Philadelphia's and throw your lips around a drippy, dreamy cheesesteak ($6.50). Philly's also serves hoagies with all your favorite deli meats ($5.75-$6.95). But why not make two worlds collide with a cheesesteak hoagie ($7.95)? Wash it down with a pint of one of the brewed-on-premises ales ($3.50) like the Ben Franklin Brown. (JL)
Pho Van
1919 SE 82nd Ave., 788-5244; 11651 SW Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway, Beaverton, 627-0822. Lunch and dinner daily. 3404 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 230-1474. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday.
The ever-growing empire known as Pho Van is one of the best portals for first discovering the crisp, refreshing sweet-sour-spicy-salty panoply of Vietnamese cuisine. The place is known for its luscious noodle soups (like the beef-rich pho bo at the original 82nd Avenue noodlehouse, $8), but other sure things include crispy eggrolls ($5) and the otherworldly goi bap chuoi, an abstract-expressionist melange of shredded banana blossoms, chicken, jicama, sesame seeds and chunks of grapefruit ($8). (TD)
Pizza Bella
1115 McVey Ave., Lake Oswego, 699-0558. Dinner daily.
The tiny, charismatic Pizza Bella offers strange choices for even seasoned pie snobs. Fortunately, the Lake Oswego favorite lets you balance balls with conservatism. Order the oddly tasty Carbomia—spinach, onions, bacon and scrambled egg—on half, and stick to the basic pepperoni (wuss) on the other half. Bases include marinara and hummus, while fresh ingredients are gobbed on, giving each bite a unique flavor. Build your own pie—with diverse ingredients from prosciutto to oranges to chevre—starting at $7.75. (AK)
Pizza-A-Go-Go
3240 N Williams Ave., 335-0300. Lunch and dinner daily.
On the outskirts of Northeast and craving a slice? Try Pizza-A-Go-Go for a quick in-and-out that will definitely satisfy your urges. Slices range from $2.50 for cheese to $3.50 for the daily meat special. The vegan option ($3) is a nice touch for non-carnivores. And although pre-prepared slices sometimes suffer from heat-lampitis, they are still better than most pizza joints. Make sure to stick with crusty stuff, as the salads, like the Pleaser Caesar ($4), are a bit on the bland side. (AC)
Pok Pok
3226 SE Division St., 232-1387. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday.
Make no mistake: You can get Thai food at Pok Pok, but it doesn't serve pad Thai. This is Northern Thai street food, and the most ubiquitous street comestible found in Bangkok is Pok Pok's signature dish: kai yaang, crispy chicken roasted with tasty Thai spices like lemongrass served up with sweet-'n'-sour sauce. For the whole bird, you'll shell out a cool $7.95. The restaurant operates like a street vendor, too; you order out of a mini-storefront with the option of eating in a plastic-wrapped lean-to, or enjoying it as takeout in front of the tube. (LS)
¿Por Qué No?
3524 N Mississippi Ave., 467-4149. Lunch and dinner daily, brunch Friday and Saturday.
Why pay $2.50 for a taco when you can get one for $1 at the taco truck? There's a restaurant law that you get what you pay for, and ¿Por Qué No? delivers the goods: half a dozen taco choices ($2.50-$3.50), plus quesadillas ($3.50-$6.50) and specials like excellent, delicately fluffed tamales ($5). The tweaks are in the details, like line-caught fish and Carlton Farms pork. One recognizes familiar flavors and textures, but they're startlingly detailed and fully realized. Don't miss taco Tuesdays, when happy-hour prices (like $4 for a fresh margarita) last from open to close. (SL)
Queen of Sheba
2413 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 287-6302. Lunch Thursday-Saturday, dinner daily.
Alem Gebrehiwot's eatery is hands down the king (and queen) of Ethiopian restaurants. From the poetic and complexly spiced alicha tibssi kintti-shara, a miracle stew of beef and mushrooms ($11.95) to the rich vegetarian sampler plate ($9 per person)—a kaleidoscopic array of chickpeas, lentils, unslimy okra (really) and so on—very little will do you wrong. The incredible smells, spices, grain-rich plates, earthy lamb, even the spongy enjera—this is communal eating at its best. (TD)
Red Coach
615 SW Broadway, 227-4840. Lunch Monday-Friday. Cash only.
The friendliness of the staff at the Red Coach could itself be the sole reason to befriend this downtown institution—it's like Cheers but with burgers instead of beer. Though the menu is as limited as its hours—weekday lunchtime only—sometimes an easy choice is exactly what you need. Karl's Special ($6.75) gives you one of the Coach's renowned cheeseburgers, a side of some damn tasty fries and a soda, and is very good reason to put your diet on hold. (LP)
Rialto Pool Room
529 SW 4th Ave., 228-7605. Lunch, dinner and late-night daily.
Dear lord, when the Rialto pimps a "daily special," ($6-$12) it ain't lyin'. From an oozy, golden, grilled cheddar-cheese sammy paired with slurpworthy housemade tomato soup to a perfectly seared steak cozied up to a baked potato and crispy li'l fried shoestring onions, the high-minded "bar" food at this formerly trashy pool hall is just that—special. If you're so inclined, bypass the off-track betting and billiards parlor's main room and score big in the adjoining '50s-style diner, where wallet-friendly comfort grub, from fresh Willapa Bay oyster shooters ($2.50) and tender halibut fish and chips ($10) to juicy burgers ($8.50) and hefty fresh salads ($4-$9), make everybody feel like a big winner. Did we mention they serve booze, too? (KC)
Ristorante Roma
622 SW 12th Ave., 241-2692. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday, dinner Sunday.
There's not a lot of fanfare when it comes to Ristorante Roma. The owners of this quiet, unassuming and uncluttered hole-in-the-wall aren't exactly using ambience to create a dining "experience." The same is true for the food—it's a straight-up Roman-Italian food without an ounce of mystery—which is exactly the way restaurants should be when it comes to Italian food. If you want chicken scalopine ($11.75), you'll get a plate full of wine-doused chicken with side salad, and not much else. If you order the ravioli Bolognese ($8.75) at Roma, you'll get a mound of cheese-stuffed ravioli with a generous dose of really good meat sauce. Roma's not a ravioli-skimping kind of joint, and for that, we're thankful. (LS)
Rovente Pizza
512 SW 4th Ave., 224-9408; 3240 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 234-7777. Lunch and dinner daily (also late-night Friday-Saturday at Hawthorne location).
Cheese lovers, rejoice: The pizza slices at Rovente are enormous and extraordinarily cheesy—the whole-milk mozzarella is so thick that it's sometimes hard to tell if your slice even has tomato sauce on it. You can also get an 8-inch (whoa!) build-your-own-sub ($6) or trade in the dough for some French bread with a pizza sandwich ($7-$8). The Hawthorne location has some picnic tables outside for nice weather, but if it's raining, you're better off grabbing a slice to go, as the seating is particularly limited. (LP)
Russell Street Bar.B.Que
325 NE Russell St., 528-8224. Lunch and dinner daily.
This is the cleanest barbecue joint this side of, well, anywhere. The tasty, homestyle meats are all naturally raised, and the menu pushes local beers ($3.50 pint/$11.50 pitcher), wines ($5 glass/$20 bottle) and Pacific Northwest strawberry lemonade ($2.50). Entrees like the juicy Virginia-style pulled pork ($10) and the masterfully grilled Texas smoked sausage ($9) come with three above-average sides (choose from a list of 10, and don't skip the zesty greens). Family-friendly, too. (KD)
Sagittarius Cafe
2710 N Killingsworth St., 289-7557. Lunch, dinner and late night Wednesday-Monday.
The menu's as varied as the decor, with Indian and Thai dishes alongside American fare, presenting clever (and even healthy) takes on comfort food from all over the globe. The fish and chips ($9.95) are easily the best in Portland—the fries, perfectly floppy and only a tad greasy, are made the way a fry should be: from an actual potato and served hot as hell. Rosemary mac and cheese ($7.50) is good as well, though the restaurant's ethnic dishes are a mixed bag. Desserts, like Toffee Coffee Fantasy, $4.50, are housemade and sharable. (MM)
Saint Cupcake
407 NW 17th Ave., 473-8760. Breakfast, lunch and dinner hours Tuesday-Sunday (in case you eat cupcakes for dinner).
A handful of regulars hovers hungrily around the jolly spot's retro bakery case, which is packed with, you guessed it, cupcakes: fruity-spicy banana chocolate-chip cups topped with cinnamon-sugar cream-cheese icing; moist pumpkin-spice cupcakes; bite-sized "coco baby cups" crowned with toasted coconut. Regardless of their wanton trappings, Saint Cupcake's rounds ($1-$2) are characterized by moist, spongy innards and chewy, cookie-like tops—the antithesis of the chalk-dry, box-mix-style cakes we have long despised. (KC)
San Felipe Taqueria
6221 SE Milwaukie Ave., 235-8158. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday.
Since it takes its name from a sleepy beach town in Baja California, it's no surprise that the vibe at this smallish taqueria is warm and casual. It's a family affair at this Sellwood taco house; three generations of Baja Californians handcraft the perfectly light, authentic tamales ($2.75 à la carte), and the recipe for the fish tacos ($3.75) is the family's secret weapon. Don't miss excellent Saturday specials like the complex, chocolate tinged chicken mole ($8.99). ¡Ole! (KP)
Sellwood Public House
"Hey, Mom, would it be all right with you if I took those neon signs from the basement and put them in the extra room upstairs? It would be nice, chill lighting for a place to hang out in armchairs and eat pizza with my friends, or just chow down on some barbecue and drink beer! Please, Mom, can I?" "Well, OK, sweetie, but I don't want you kids smoking up there." And so began the Sellwood Public House—at least, that seems like a perfectly plausible naissance when you're sitting in one of those armchairs, digesting the giant pizza you just shared with some buddies or chowing on something from the relatively new barbecue menu, drinking a beer, listening to live blues from the back room, and basking in the neon glow of beer and hockey-team signs. A 16-inch pepperoni is $17 and earns its "New York-style" name, and "gourmet" choices with white sauce, capers, Genoa salami or artichoke hearts run another buck or two. Just to make you feel more at home, it's smoke-free and family-friendly, often with a handful of little nippers running around. (MS)
Signal Station Pizza
8302 N Lombard St., 286-2257. Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday.
Housed in a former gas station/gift shop, Signal Station gets creative with its generous personal pizzas ($9-$9.50), as only half of them come with traditional tomato sauce. The Signal Special ($9.50) starts with a garlic, sun-dried tomato and olive oil sauce, upon which basil, parsley, walnuts and montrachet cheese are added to more traditional ingredients. Or build your own atop a triple-cheese pizza ($7.50) with meats ($1), veggies (50 cents), and—if you want to add a fourth cheese—feta, Montrachet or romano (75 cents each). These are the same owners who used to make the heavenly pies at Vista Springs Cafe. (JL)
Skyline Restaurant
1313 NW Skyline Blvd., 292-6727. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.
It's hard to pinpoint why Skyline Restaurant's burgers are so freaking good. Is it the slightly toasted, gingerly buttered bun? Or is it the juicy burger cooked on a griddle from the '30s that requires (at last count) at least six napkins? Perhaps it's the restaurant's location, glistening at the corner of Northwest Cornell Road and Skyline Boulevard like an oasis of red neon lights and wood paneling. Or maybe it's the old-fashioned prices (the signature Skyline cheeseburger with all the fixins is $3.70). At any rate, Skyline is what we call a good old-fashioned greasy spoon, featuring crispy onion rings, great burgers and a variety of shakes—and puts Burgerville to shame. (LS)
SohBet
2710 N Killingsworth St., 735-3446. Breakfast, lunch and early dinner daily.
A comfy cafe that features Stumptown coffee and Baker & Spice pastries is a great thing. But add a slate of yummy sandwiches, spreads and soups, and you've got a neighborhood treasure. At North Portland's SohBet, you can accompany your Americano with a hearty panini ($5.75) like the rich pesto turkey. Or split a plate of creamy, garlicky white-bean purée, olives, hunks of cheese, and rustic bread ($6.75) with a friend. Whatever you get, the friendly vibe will have you lingering all afternoon. Pure heaven. (MW)
Stanich's
4915 NE Fremont St., 281-2322; 5627 SW Kelly Ave., 281-2322. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. Cash only.
A Portland tradition, Stanich's burgers are not so much a meal as they are a voyage into cholesterol-induced euphoria. Be safe with a perfectly cooked cheeseburger ($5) and a mound of hand-cut fries ($1.25-$1.50), or play Russian roulette with your left ventricle with "The World's Greatest Cheeseburger" ($5.75), a sinfully decadent burger loaded with cheese, a slab of ham, bacon and a fried egg. Add a 64-ounce pitcher ($8-$13) to wash it down and seal that food coma. (AK)
Stark Naked Pizza
2835 SE Stark St., 459-4450. Lunch and dinner daily.
Back to basics: Stark Naked is a no-frills pizza joint (unless you consider a table-top version of the '82 videogame classic Mr. Do! a frill). The thin-'n'-crispy slices ($2-$3.50) are generous, bigger at the crust than a thumb-to-pinkie span, but don't expect a flavor rumba. You might also try out the hot and cold subs ($6-$7) or one of three salads ($5). And you can't grab a can of RC Cola just anywhere anymore. (ID)
Stepping Stone Cafe
2390 NW Quimby St., 222-1132. Breakfast and lunch daily, late-night Thursday-Saturday.
With the motto "you eat here because we let you," you'd expect a surly staff and no-nonsense food. Indeed, the kitchen does put out huge plates of greasy-spoon fare like chicken-fried steak, sausage gravy and eggs ($7.50) and rich cinnamon-roll French toast ($5.95). Happily, the quick refills on coffee come from waiters who are actually quite pleasant. Late nights on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, tipsy revelers tuck into the same fare until 3 am. (IM)
Stickers Asian Cafe
6808 SE Milwaukie Ave., 239-8739. Lunch and dinner daily.
Stickers' multinational approach to Asian comfort food accommodates a continent's worth of tastes—Korean beef skewers ($10.95), a piquant Tandoori chicken ($9.95), and an equally sweet and savory pad Thai ($8.95-$9.95) are all on offer here. The restaurant's namesake, its potstickers ($3.95 and up), come in six different varieties. Be careful with those stickers, though; these tender dumplings tend to get weighed down by a too-thick peanut sauce. Despite a heavy sauce, Stickers remains a Sellwood food spot that's as friendly as the neighbors. (KP)
Sub Rosa
2601 SE Clinton St., 233-1955. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday.
With tall ceilings, clean lines and warm, coffee-colored walls, Sub Rosa is a straightforward, friendly and appealing neighborhood restaurant that doesn't try to be something it's not. Serving simple Italian food in realistic portions with fresh ingredients, a surprisingly varied menu emerges from Sub Rosa's tiny and efficient kitchen. The Caesar salad ($4-$7) is garlicky and flavorful but not heavy or mayonnaisy. The fettuccine Alfredo ($9) delivers a creamy, rich punch without dairy overload, but the pizza ($10-16), much lauded, can be dry and tough. (MK)
SuperDog
1438 SW Park Ave., 243-5045. Lunch and early dinner Monday-Saturday.
Here in leafy green P-town, hot-dog joints are few and far between, and those that do pop up tend to disappear faster than you can say "hold the special sauce" (RIP, Dazzle Dogs). So if you love a good weenie, hold on to SuperDog's bitchin' bun pups and don't let go. For a party in your mouth, try the spicier-than-thou Mount St. Helen [sic] Volcano ($3.75) or the Portland Original ($4)—a Zenner's Double Smokie marinated in local microbrewed beer. Best of all, this sausage spot knows God (well, in this case, a good dog) is in the details: All hail SuperDog's plentiful condiment bar. Feel free to pile on the warm sauerkraut, relish, pepperoncini, jalapeños, fresh onions and hot sauce to your heart's content. (JD)
Sushi Mania
914 NE Broadway, 288-5149. Lunch and dinner daily.
For those who like their fish cooked, Sushi Mania (formerly Blowfish) is a good place to get a Japanese fix. Sure, they have all the classic raw rolls like salmon and tuna ($4), but Sushi Mania's trademark is the gargantuan "baked roll." From crispy tempura calamari piled on a sort of California roll ($7.50) to baked lobster ($10.50), these are the sushi equivalent of prime rib. Finally, sushi that won't leave you hungry an hour later. (AC)
Swagat
2074 NW Lovejoy St., 227-4300; 4325 SW 109th Ave., 626-3000; 340 NE Orenco Station Parkway, 844-3838. Lunch and dinner daily.
I know the secret Stonecutters society on The Simpsons rigs the Oscars, but who rigs the prices at the area Indian lunch buffets? In the past year, they all seemed to go from $6.95 to $7.95. Swagat's buffet is still one of the best, with plenty of items on offer that go beyond the usual saag paneer/tandoori chicken spectrum, like stewed turnips or eggplant curry, with each taste commanding its own spot on your plate and your tongue. But paying eight bucks and not even getting a samosa might put the buffet past the point of diminishing returns. For a few more dollars and a lot more food, get a full thali platter at dinner, and if you're really hungry, dare yourself to finish a curry-stuffed dosa (giant lentil-flour crêpe), too. (MS)
La Tapatia
11705 SW Pacific Highway, 684-5424. Lunch and dinner daily.
Formerly La Playa Azul, this strip-mall Mexican restaurant has a new name, new management and a predominantly Guadalajaran menu. The house specialty is its selection of tortas (sandwiches, $5.95-$6.95), with stewed or roasted meat served warm with lettuce, tomato and a thin spread of mayonnaise on a huge, soft roll. The irresistible torta Tapatia ($5.95) comes with scrumptiously juicy, lightly spiced shredded pork with onion, melted Mexican cheese and fresh jalapeño slices. (KD)
Thai Ginger
2020 N Portland Blvd., 283-9731. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday.
Great Thai dishes and extremely friendly service keep North Portlanders coming back to this spot, where soothing music and traditional decorations almost make diners forget they're in a mini-strip mall. Go for the unforgettable pra ram noodle: rice noodles with broccoli, carrots and cabbage, topped with a steaming peanut sauce ($5.50-$8.75 lunch/$7.50-$9.95 dinner, depending on choice of meat, seafood or tofu). The tom kha, coconut-milk soup with mushrooms and lemongrass ($6.95-$9.95), might just be the tangiest variation in town. (KD)
Thai Noon
2635 NE Alberta St., 282-2021. Lunch and dinner daily.
Though Thai joints practically outnumber Craftsman bungalows in this city, Thai Noon stands out for an attention to detail on everything from crispy, vegetarian spring rolls ($3.75) to the Buddhist-themed artwork lining the walls. Curries ($7.50-$8.95) are consistently on-target here, providing the right blend of veggies, meat and traditional seasonings. House specials like the piquant chicken with eggplant ($9.95) and peanutty Pa Nang salmon ($11.95) offer relief from old standbys. Nice house cocktails, too. (KP)
Tin Shed Garden Cafe
1438 NE Alberta St., 288-6966. Breakfast and lunch daily, dinner Wednesday-Sunday.
Tin Shed is known for its superb breakfasts with such delicious twists as eggs and potato pancakes ($5). With a great-sounding menu, dinner should have been a shoo-in as well. Unfortunately, those excited that the Cafe serves chicken pot pie ($7.25), shouldn't be: Ours was bland and soggy. More traditional bar food like a hamburger with spicy horseradish sauce ($5.50) fares slightly better, but there's a reason the Tin Shed Garden Cafe is famous for breakfast—not dinner. (AC)
Tributes
2272 NW Kearney St., 299-1200. Lunch and dinner daily.
This well-kept secret offers the best of both coasts: local draft beer on tap plus pizza ($2.25-$3.75 a slice) and giant subs that could hold their own in NYC and Philly. On your first visit, go ahead and sink your teeth into the dripping-with-flavor cheesesteak ($7.25). But don't miss the eggplant parm sub ($7.25) on your second go around. It's loaded with sweet marinara, gooey mozzarella and eggplant so thin, golden and crispy you'll consider going vegetarian—at least 'til you start eyeing the Boar's Head beef hot dogs ($3-$3.75). (JD)
Tuk Tuk Thai
4239 NE Fremont St., 282-0456. Lunch and dinner daily.
You won't go hungry at Tuk Tuk. Satisfy your Thai cravings with large vat of lemongrassy tom yum soup ($7.50-$12.50 depending on protein) crammed full of veggies. It makes a hearty appetizer for three, or is perfect for a solo meal—plus tasty leftovers. Generous portions of stir-fried dishes like eggplant and bamboo shoots in sweet basil and chili sauce ($7.50-$12.50) have a nice balance of heat and sweetness. And quench the fire in your mouth with a refreshing swig of Asian beer, like a Sapporo ($3). (JC)
Ukiyoe
6516 N Denver Ave., 283-8770. Lunch and dinner Monday-Friday, dinner Saturday.
Behold the home of the once-humble Teriyaki Steak House. Last year this no-nonsense bento-'n'-sushi joint was magically transformed into a more upscale eatery. It now goes by the name Ukiyoe, the Japanese word for "floating world." And what a complete transformation it was. Not only did the owners gut the interior; they also expanded and gussied up the space, making it one of North Portland's most attractive eateries. Couple of things didn't change, though: Prices for ample slices of fresh nigiri (like scallops and salmon) are still in the incredibly inexpensive range (most $2.99-$3.99) and the entrees, like kal bi (Korean-style beef short ribs, $10.95) or spicy chicken ($5.95) are still out of this world. This is "floating world" nirvana. (BB)
Taqueria Uruapan
5703 SE 82nd Ave., 777-5896. Lunch and dinner daily. Also 5222 SE Foster Road, 772-2088. Lunch daily.
Juco Ayala's Uruapan is a shrine for those seeking either authenticity or a Mexican meal-deal. From the massive burritos ($4), tacos ($1) to the tortas ($4) and quesadillas ($4.50)—with pastor, pollo, lengua, etc., you name it—to the fantastic salsa verde, here you will eat like the king of the corrugated-tin castle. (TD)
Utopia Cafe
3308 SE Belmont St., 235-7606. Breakfast and lunch daily.
Utopia Cafe's is a breakfast that makes you bolt from bed at 7:30 am on a Sunday to beat the crowds. The French toast ($5.50) proves that a little extra effort can boost a tired standby into the sublime (here, it's the fresh-baked brioche). Utopia takes the old and adds a little more so that dishes like the bacavo scramble ($7.95)—bacon, avocado and bleu cheese in scrambled eggs—hit you with a new taste that's deliciously familiar. (AC)
Valentine's
232 SW Ankeny St., 248-1600. Lunch and dinner Mondays-Saturday, late night Wednesday-Saturday (and when there are events).
Valentine's has all the trappings of a Portland coffee shop, without actually being a coffee shop; it's more like a panini boutique with great music (the restaurant does double duty as a late-night music venue). An abundance of sandwiches grace the menu, all available toasty warm with the telltale markings of a panini grill. Options range from a $4 breakfast sandwich to the $6-$7 house special, a salami-and-cheese sandwich smothered with olive tapenade—all served with your choice of crispy chips or healthy salad. Valentine's gets bonus kudos for its charming locale; it's on the cobblestoned, alley-esque Southwest Ankeny, snuggled right between 2nd and 3rd avenues. If you use your imagination, you could very well be in Florence (Italy, not Oregon). (LS)
Veganopolis
412 SW 4th Ave., 226-3400. Breakfast and lunch Monday-Saturday.
The relaxed feel of this downtown vegan establishment is as welcoming as its food. You don't have to be a PETA activist to enjoy the grinder ($6.95) or a faux-chicken burger ($5.50, plus 75 cents or $1.50 for extras), both of which are healthy and scrumptious. And the cakes ($4.50 a slice), courtesy of Sellwood's Piece of Cake bakery, are so good that you almost won't believe they're dairy-free—the mark of great vegan food. (LP)
Vegetarian House
Most Asian eateries leave few entree options for veg-heads—usually it's tofu or no food. But the beauty of the Vegetarian House is its comprehensive menu of faux meat mixed with standard Chinese fare, all adding up to a pretty tasty treat—and convincing substitute. You won't know the difference between the veggie crab Rangoon ($4.95) and the kind you may have had elsewhere, and although the "beef" (actually stir-fried tofu) in the veggie shredded beef with tangy sauce ($7.75) is a little soggier than the real thing, it's delicious. But beware the buffet ($6.50): Come mid-afternoon, it veers into the limp zone. (LP)
Via Delizia
1105 NW Marshall St., 225-9300. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.
This Tuscan-themed cafe's decor is a tad on the wacky side (simulated Italianate stone and an enormous ersatz olive tree) but hits the gustatory spot when it comes to things like the turkey with tomato, mozzarella, artichoke lemon pesto Toscano panini ($7.95, including side pasta salad), Umbria insalata ($3.95 or $6.50) or any number of revolving, vivid-tasting gelati—try the Nutella or pistachio! ($2.50). (TD)
Vista Spring Cafe
2440 SW Vista Spring Ave., 222-2811. Lunch and dinner daily.
A couple of young bucks who've held the keys to this West Hills hideout for less than a year have turned an always reliable pizza joint into an awesome restaurant. Building on the cafe's base of great gourmet pies ($9.95-$17.95), topped with such standouts as Montrachet and 'shrooms (for veg-heads) and smoked oysters and prosciutto (for meat lovers), they've added a few new unique entrees, including a wild-salmon cheddar burger served with wasabi mayo ($7.50) and a poppyseed-chicken crunch salad ($8.95) to the mix. (BB)
Vita Cafe
3024 NE Alberta St., 335-8233. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily, late night Friday-Saturday.
The beauty of Alberta's inviting Vita Cafe is how it has managed—unbelievably—to make a vegan alternative that tastes so good you'll have no qualms giving up the meat product it's replacing. It tastes like the real thing, even when it's not. Vita's BLT ($5.95) trades in the pig fat for smoked tempeh and could herald the beginning of the end of your addiction to flesh. The extensive menu also offers a nice array of yummy vegetarian options, as well as a few real burgers ($4.95-$5.95)—free-range and hormone-free, of course—for those of you who are still devoted meat eaters. (LP)
Cafe Voilà
901-A SW Washington St., 595-5606. Breakfast, lunch and early dinner Monday-Friday.
In the corner of what seems like another cubicle-packed, corporate office (it's actually the City Club) lies the serene, pristine and see-and-be-seen Cafe Voilà. Also a gourmet catering operation, this cafe serves up Illy espresso, 20 rare teas, soups, a small assortment of delectable salads, including a striking beet salad ($4.50) as well as a dense lentil salad ($4.50), and gigantic gourmet sandwiches, packed full of goodness, that go for a mere $5.50. (LM)
Voodoo Doughnut
22 SW 3rd Ave., 241-4704. Late night and breakfast 10 pm-10 am. Closed Sundays and Saturday mornings. Open at 8 pm Thursday-Saturday.
Creative wunderkinder Tres Shannon and Kenneth Pogson's tiny shop has garnered national media attention from the likes of Good Morning America and The Christian Science Monitor. Sure, they've got finely crafted doughuts like the Cocoa Puff-topped "Triple Chocolate Penetration" ($1, $8 for an assorted Voodoo baker's dozen selected by the staff) or the less subtle, cream-filled "Cock-n-Balls" ($4.95), but add Swahili lessons, legal marriages and live-music events and it becomes much more than a refueling station for the late-night munchies. This is the stuff of legend. (IM)
Cafe Wonder
128 NE Russell St., 493-0371. Dinner and late-night Tuesday-Sunday.
Rumor has it this basement bar was nearly named after that mid-'80s sitcom Small Wonder. That would've been a real shame. Because there's nothing about this place that'll remind you of a small, female android. Cafe Wonder's darkly lit downstairs dining cave, the perfect complement to the American Gothic upstairs ballroom, is the real thing, serving a smorgasbord of comfort foods, including poppin'-fresh chicken croquettes ($3.50-$5.50), two hefty slabs of old-fashioned meatloaf ($9) and one of the best beef burgers in town ($8.50). But beware the dry cod ($10.50). Even housemade rémoulade can't save this one. (BB)
Ya Hala
8005 SE Stark St., 256-4484. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday.
This Montavilla destination is almost always crowded with families reaching over each other's plates of succulent shawarma ($9.95) as they tear off bits of piping-fresh pita to drag through hummus and puckery baba ghanouj. Try both in the veggie mezza ($8.95), which also comes with just-right falafel, grape leaves, tabbouleh and aranabeet (fried cauliflower, which may be an acquired taste—its inclusion feels a bit like your mom tried to sneak some Brussels sprouts on your plate without your noticing). The best part? After you fall in love with your Lebanese labne appetizer (absolutely addictive yogurt cheese served here with olives and fresh mint, $3.75) or Armenian beer, you can load up a basket at the attached International Food Supply market and take some home with you. (MS)
Yam Yam's
7339 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 978-9229. Lunch and dinner daily. Buffet 12:30-6 pm Sunday.
Aside from the cuisine, there are not too many reasons to visit the South (the humidity and lingering resentment over losing the Civil War are especially unpleasant). And since Southern-style cooking doesn't get any better than this, it's possible to enjoy what makes the South great—delicious shredded pork ($10), crispy fried catfish ($8.50) and fried chicken wings ($6.50) so big they may actually be pterodactyl wings—without ever going below the Mason-Dixon line. But the real treat is on Sunday, when the all-you-can-eat buffet ($12) is served. (DW)
Zach's Shack
4611 SE Hawthorne Blvd., (971) 235-9888. Lunch, dinner and late-night daily.
A hot-dog lover's stairway to heaven. Once a food cart, now a permanent hole in the wall, this P-town favorite specializes in classic rock-themed dogs and decor. Try the Grateful Dog ($3), a hippie-licious pup topped with fresh, flavorful onions, cucumbers, tomatoes and celery salt. Our only complaint: One just isn't enough. Unless, that is, you go for the big, juicy red hot sausage ($1 extra) and add creamy coleslaw (75 cents) to ease the pain. To make it a meal go for the gourmet fries ($2.50) topped with anything from cheese (50 cents) to sauerkraut (50 cents) to chili (75 cents). (JD)
Zell's Cafe
1300 SE Morrison St., 239-0196. Breakfast and lunch daily.
Once inside the genteel Zell's, one is transported far from an up-and-coming Southeast Portland neighborhood to a small town on the old Mississip', where time is slow, sweet jazz resonates, and the food is delectable. Enjoy an eclectic breakfast menu with such standouts as the portabella, spinach, tomato and assaggio scramble ($8.25) and the unique apple German pancake ($7.50). The complimentary scones and outside coffee service (where people line up on the weekends) ain't too shabby, either. (LM)
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