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Andina

Peru is doubly blessed when it comes to cuisine, with an unmatched assortment of native ingredients (3,800-plus varieties of potato!) and a strong Spanish influence (mmm, ham). The tapas-style menu at the Pearl's always-crammed Andina makes good use of both.

Head straight for the causas, especially the mixta nikkei ($14)—a traditional timbale with lime-scented Yukon gold potato topped with avocado, spicy tuna and crab salad and accompanied by addictive Ají amarillo pepper sauce. The meaty ceviche of ono ($19) filled me up quicker than any ceviche should. The pimiento piquillo relleno ($12.50), a sweet pepper stuffed with quinoa, cheese and serrano ham is a must-have, but I'd skip the too-rich panna cotta de cafe with Andean lúcuma fruit ($9). Show up when the doors open or after 9:30 pm if you don't have either reservations or a spare hour.

Pro Tip: Come at 4 pm and sit at the bar for the best odds of finding a seat without a reservation.

1314 NW Glisan St., 228-9535, andinarestaurant.com. 11:30 am-2 pm daily, 4-11 pm Sunday-Thursday, 4 pm-midnight Friday-Saturday. $$$.