4714 NE Fremont St., 319-2517. Open most Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. Look for the glowing neon sign in the basement.

To describe Dean's Scene as welcoming is something of an understatement. Upon entering the Fremont basement, we were greeted by a tall bearded fellow: "Welcome to Dean's Scene. Grab a glass. We've got all the beer and weed you could want." It's all for a donation, not for purchase, which makes the whole operation legal. Or maybe not—two years ago, the Oregon Liquor Control Commission hand-delivered a warning letter to owner Dean Pottle, who temporarily shut the place down. But the 60-something Pottle, a plumber by day, is back. There remains talk of an expansion and proper licensing, but for now, you still trek through cigarette and marijuana smoke and pull the beer yourself—we sampled an imperial IPA, a smooth stout and a zingy rye. So what is new? Pottle, easy to spot by his long gray ponytail, isn't doing all the brewing himself: He's got a few younger dudes on board, including one who served us a stout made with marijuana tincture and a flower-infused pale. Another showed off his carnivorous plants. Regulars are equally chummy: On our visit, one serenely played the flute, while a budtender ranted about the VW emissions scandal.

Drink This: Well, that weed-infused beer kills two birds with one stone. But careful—you'll feel it after 4 ounces.