Restaurant Guide 2006

Sometimes you forget how good and satisfying straightforward pasta dishes can be. At the Pearl District's lovely Caffe Allora, the pasta isn't an afterthought to the secondi, it is the main focus of the menu. Plump ravioli drizzled with brown butter and sprinkled with fried sage leaves is ultra-rich, but worth every calorie. Also delicious are firm-to-the-bite gnocchi covered in a simple tomato sauce and a shower of good cheese. Part wine bar, Caffe Allora has a well-chosen list that emphasizes Italian reds. Pair a good bottle with an antipasto misto�a platter brimming with prosciutto, excellent Italian cheeses, olives and bruschettas�for a stylish twist on happy hour. And speaking of stylish, the brick walls, abstract canvases, and concrete floors make for a particularly Pearl-esque dining experience.