A gem in the rough, CV (founded by Zefiro, Higgins and Caffe Mingo vet Vito DiLullo) is a defiantly upscale, luxurious presence on Northeast's laid-back (and still funky) Alberta Street. Italian food and Northwest seasonal-fresh ingredients are done simply but with elegance, and an often rough dispatch gives the place a satisfying neighborhood vibe, recalling the best little mamone hang-spots of Mott Street in NYC of yore. A healthy expanse of antipasti della casa goes far, subtly padding the gustatory path for things like Vito's now-legendary razor clams and (a good wet, early fall permitting) pastas with Northwest-harvested mushrooms, seafood or fresh fish. (TD)