Don't be put off by the dead-railroad-downtown-from-the-1950s vibe of Flying Pie's stretch of Montavilla; this pizza den deserves all of the "Best Pizza" accolades hanging on its walls. Italian- and American-style pie enthusiasts get a choice of four crust thicknesses (from New York City-style thin to Sicilian), two dough flavors, and an armada of toppings-and Flying Pie definitely isn't stingy with them. (TC)