Great China ditches table service for an all-you-can-eat spread ($6.75 lunch, $8.95 dinner on weekdays). All the usual suspects are offered-standouts include perfectly crisp and flavored green beans and that naughty deep-fried treat, General You-Know-Who's chicken. Dim sum choices-dumplings and lots of other exotics wrapped in dough-exist at the far end of the buffet. The starch and mystery of them might not please every palate, but the hot-and-sour soup-rumored to be the best in town-is right up front for the taking. (KBC)