Conscientious meets delicious: Owner Polly Bangs employs homeless and disadvantaged youth in entry-level positions at North Mississippi's most bangin' place to pop plate after plate of hot pasta. While it may not sound like it, romantic, open-face booths for lovebirds and a candle-lit bar for friends and flings make this stylish hideout a jewel, not a joint. And sophisticated entrees echo the restaurant's sumptuous decor. For the full effect, try the mussels in a tasty tomato vodka sauce over fat, fresh pappardelle noodles ($10.50) or the hot and spicy sausage and roasted red-pepper pesto tossed with penne ($10). (JD)