The tiny corner play area that had families lining up outside the door at this brewpub and restaurant when Laurelwood ran the space is gone. That’s good for adult customers of Columbia River who want less chance of finding young’uns underfoot while they sample any of the new operator’s fine roster of brews. I’m particularly partial to the Hollywood Hefe and the Sandy Blonde. The menu of pizza, sandwiches and bar food is perfectly fine. But longtime residents of the Hollywood neighborhood can’t help but notice that the loss of the play area makes the place seem on many nights like Laurelwood’s predecessor—the short-lived Old World brew pub. Like Old World, Columbia River has good beer in a brightly lit spot with a lot of empty seats. That’s a shame. HENRY STERN.
What to drink: Hollywood Hefe.
Happy hour: $3 pints, $1 off wine and $2 off appetizers 3-6 pm and 9 pm to close.