Lutz Tavern: Happy Returns

LUTZ TAVERN

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In its previous life—which ended last year after 63 years—Lutz Tavern (4639 SE Woodstock Blvd., 774-0353) was known nationally as the bar where hipsters discovered Pabst Blue Ribbon. It was a true dive, but one with outsize influence among bike messengers and other curators of cool. The revived Lutz, which was reopened two weeks ago by Clinton Street Pub owners Jayson Criswell and Robert Kowalski, retains the old look and clientele: The lineup at the bar on a recent Friday was plaid, fleece, tweed, plaid, plaid, plaid and tweed. The PBR is still there, $2 per tallboy, along with four other macros, but the new regime has made a few important changes: Lutz now has liquor, eight taps of good Northwest micros, and a real kitchen that makes a kick-ass burger. It comes with shoestring fries and, for an extra $2, house-cured bacon.

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