820 NE Dekum St., 719-6475;
5821 SE International Way, Milwaukie,
breakside.com. Northeast Portland location open 3-10 pm Monday-Thursday, noon-11 pm Friday- Saturday, noon-10 pm Sunday. Milwaukie location open 3-7:30 pm Monday-Friday, 2-8 pm Saturday.
It's rare to find the brewer manning taps at even the smallest of brewpubs. It's totally unheard of at a full-scale production brewery. Or it was before Northeast Portland's Breakside opened a taproom in the Milwaukie industrial park that also houses Dave's Killer Bread and Bob's Red Mill. Breakside's brewers pledged to man the bar here and, a year after this Safeway-sized facility opened, they've honored that. Yes, that's Yale-educated brewmaster Ben Edmunds pouring your pint of dry Irish Stout, one of 100 different beers his team made in 2013. Feel free to ask about it, but only if you've got time to learn a little about the history of Beamish and Crawford. For food or entertainment, you'll want to head to the original brewpub in the Dekum Triangle. But if you want to geek out on beer made with roasted duck, a maple-smoked lager or a braggot aged in aquavit barrels, this is a great place. MARTIN CIZMAR.
DRINK THIS: The Passionfruit Sour is among our top 10 beers of the year, and the chili-infused Aztec was among our top 10 beers of last year. So, sweet or spicy?