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[WAIT HERE] I've got bad news and good news. The bad news is that, yes, that block-long mass of humanity has successfully sussed out the best Southern-fried brunch in town. The good news is that the line is not as bad as it looks. Not more than an hour, probably. When you finally get a seat near the kitchen, you'll understand. Nicole and David Mouton have assembled a crew of stone-cold killers who can cook you a fried-oysters Benedict as fast as they look at you, and who put out those famous fried chicken-and-waffle plates ($14.75) as easily as you or I might make toast. Most impressive is the tight control on quality, which seems to stop anything below excellent from clearing the kitchen. The specials are strong, including a smoked brisket hash ($12.75), a mix of chilies, sweet onions, cilantro-inflected crema and roasty tomatillo salsa. Meanwhile, the fluffy buttermilk biscuits ($1.75) are reliably excellent, and depending on the season, the generously appointed fruit bowl ($6.95 for the massive large) can be just the dose of vitamins and minerals your heart needs to continue beating after that chicken and waffle. MARTIN CIZMAR.
My only gripe? The cocktails—including a brandy milk punk and spiced rum hot cider—which tend toward fluff and sugar. Stick with coffee.
The Directory: Our 100 Favorite Restaurants in Portland
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2014 Restaurant of the Year: Kachka
Top Five: Old Salt, Ataula, American Local, Expatriate
Counter Service Spots: Latin | Asian | Italian | Sandwiches | Burgers
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WWeek 2015
