Mill City Brew Werks

339 NE Cedar St., Camas, Wash., 360-210-4761, mcbwbeer.com. 11 am-10 pm daily.

[WATER HOG] Once you get past the pulp fart wafting in from the mill, Camas is a quaint little burg. The town center definitely upgraded with the addition of Mill City Brew Werks, a 10-barrel enterprise headed by Mark Zech. The brewery's restaurant space is expansive enough to keep the kitchen humming, and the brewery's two primary fermenters are on display through glass walls in the dining room. It's the subterranean section of the Werks which is most impressive, housing an on-site bakery for burger buns and a maze of silver tanks and pipe for the beer. Zech began making beer in the '80s while serving in the Air Force, and will affably share his audacious plans for alcoholic domination. The offerings on-hand are decidedly Deustch, inspired by his lineage, which he's traced to a German brewing family. Mill City is one of those places where everything's been thought through, even the water. Rather than adjust the city's water to his desired pH inside his block-wide basement brewhouse, Zeke reportedly got a local insider to tweak the city supply to his standards.

DRINK THIS: The mildly smoky and impressively crisp Rauchbier.