Walking Man

240 SW 1st St., Stevenson, Wash., 509-427-5520, walkingmanbeer.com. 4-9 pm Wednesday-Friday, noon-9 pm Saturday, noon-8 pm Sunday.

[ROLL ON, COLUMBIA] For a decade and a half, down the stairs of an old shop, across from the north bank of the Columbia River, Walking Man has been quietly churning out some of the world's best beer. The beer list is deep and strong, and the theme is bold flavors. The Littlefoot ISA is bright and punchy even at 4.4 percent and the ultra-hopped Knuckle Dragger is tasty, if admittedly one-note. The Black Cherry Stout and Big Black Homo Erectus CDA are triumphs of their form, but the heart of the lineup are Walking Man's two biggest award winners: the High Road Scotch Ale (Gold, 2005 Great American Brewfest) or the IPA (Gold, 2006 World Beer Cup). With all that hardware, the taproom itself can get crowded. Thankfully, there's an idyllic patio that fills out when it's warm enough.

DRINK THIS: If you're limited for time, focus on the bigger beers, particularly if the 12 percent Jaywalker Imperial Russian is on hand.