621 SE Morrison St. and four other locations, 328-2865, bunksandwiches.com. Lunch daily at all locations; dinner nightly at Alberta, Wonder Bar and Bunk Bar locations.

Tommy Habetz started his chef's career cooking in the restaurants of seemingly every celebrity chef in America, from Bobby Flay to Mario Batali to culinary tycoon Drew Nieporent. But what he always wanted was a sandwich shop, making the humble flavors he fell in love with as a kid eating at McDonald's. Bunk's pork belly Cubano—a classic sandwich updated from ham to pork belly and shoulder, not to mention mustard and mayo and Swiss cheese and Valentina hot sauce—hit Portland's food scene like a protein bomb, sending lunchtime lines sprawling out onto the sidewalks of a then-desolate stretch of Southeast Morrison. Bunk itself has now spread across the city and all the way to New York. But when it is perfect, the Cubano can still feel personal as all hell.