6707 SE Milwaukie Ave., 503-233-4220, facebook.com/cosmolounge. 11 am-2:30 am daily. Happy hour 3-6 pm: $2 tallboys, $3.50 wells.

Established: August 2009

Amid Sellwood's surprisingly great dive bar scene, Cosmo Lounge is a little like a loner party bar. On a recent visit, our ebullient bartender wore a tank dress emblazoned with "Pussy Popping" in hot pink all caps, and served tallboys to a bar lined with men in baseball caps and flannel, while the music alternated between Drake and the Rolling Stones. It's easy to feel inconspicuous at Cosmo. The long, narrow bar is decked out with black-velvet paintings of wolves and naked women. There's a backroom with a pool tables, and a row of booths if you want to sink away from the fluorescent glow of the jukebox and TVs. But even on a slow night, the bar always keeps on hand a tray of Jell-O shots.

(Hilary Sander)
(Hilary Sander)