The Horse Brass

4534 SE Belmont St., 232-2202, horsebrass.com.

The Babe Ruth of Portland beer bars turns the big 4-0 this year. On a busy weekend, it can still be tough to find a rickety wooden chair inside this dimly lit English-style pub, which opened before legendary publican Don Younger had been across the pond. Beer selection is always strong, servers are speedy and focused and they fry up some of the best fish and chips in town.

Thomas Teal
Thomas Teal

Higgins

1239 SW Broadway, 222-9070, higginsportland.com.

The tavern side of this high-end downtown restaurant has been serious about beer before beer was serious. The tap list favors vintage craft—chef Greg Higgins has a Hair of the Dog beer named in his honor, the bar is allotted a keg of Russian River's Pliny the Younger, and the lengthy bottle list includes a $324 3-liter double magnum of Chimay—but you can also find hot new stuff from de Garde and Pfriem alongside the stellar burger.

Henry's Tavern

10 NW 12th Ave., 227-5320, henrystavern.com.

For 135 years, the Blitz-Weinhard brewery sat in this space. All that remains now is a brand owned by Miller, of late used to market a line of hard sodas, and this spacious red-brick tavern. There's an ice rail to keep your pint extra cold, and 100 taps to pick from. Even snobs should check out the branch at PDX, Laurelwood's only serious competition for the title of best airport pub.

John's Market

3535 SW Multnomah Blvd., 244-2617, johnsmarketplace.com.

This megastore has a continent-hopping selection of more than 1,000 beers and ciders, as well as kegs of virtually every major brew in the region—and most minor ones, too. It looks like a gas station, employees are gruff and the expansive foreign bottle selection is sometimes dusty, but that's what gives it charm.

Bridget Baker
Bridget Baker

Produce Row

204 SE Oak St., 232-8355, producerowcafe.com.

Back from the dead (again), this industrial eastside institution has new ownership, and a few newer taps. Produce Row was one of Widmer's original accounts, but on the last visit, the Brothers had given way to Caldera, No-Li, Crux and Migration. The interior that was refurbished during the second-to-last temporary closure is very nice, but the action is on the massive patio.