Willamette Week is in the middle of our most important annual fundraiser. As a local independent news outlet, we need your help.

Give today. Hold power to account.

Support

Labrewatory

By Matthew Korfhage

670 N Russell St., 971-271-8151, labrewatory.com. 3-9 pm Wednesday-Thursday, 3-10 pm Friday-Saturday, 1-6 pm Sunday.

Brewing-equipment maker Portland Kettleworks bills its new science-themed brewpub as a "craft beer lab," a place for experiments by guest brewers who are, not coincidentally, potential clients. But brewer-in-residence Charlie Johnson has been setting the tone in the first months since the November opening, with some true winners, including a Sans Nibs Saison that's light, floral, subtle and damn-near perfect—better, indeed, than the after-nibs product that included some chocolate. A terrific Far & Sure Smoked Scotch Ale included actual peat and tasted a bit like Scotch whisky. A Billy the Squid cherry squid-ink gose, meanwhile, was an intense experience loved by some, shunned by others. But even if the experiments don't turn out—like a grassy, catty IPA made with leftover hops from countless fields—know that failure is part of science. Soon, Johnson plans to let customers taste a beer at various stages in the process of brewing, kind of like watching a child grow up. "So strong! Such a good little stout."

(Maya Setton) (Maya Setton)

Drink This: If you're drinking it here, it hasn't been drunk before. Order the thing that looks craziest.

Willamette Week

Explore more on:

bg-2016bg16-directorybreweriesbrewerylabrewatoryportland beerportland breweries

Matthew Korfhage

Matthew Korfhage

Matthew Korfhage has lived in St. Louis, Chicago, Munich and Bordeaux, but comes from Portland, where he makes guides to the city and writes about food, booze and books. He likes the Oxford comma but can't use it in the newspaper.