635 NE Water Ave., Albany, 541-928-7699, sinisterdeluxe.com. 3-8 pm Monday-Friday, noon-8 pm Saturday, noon-6 pm Sunday.

It's easy to miss Albany's first "brewstillery" in its warehouse-dominated riverfront location just past the town's cute central core. Deluxe Brewing's laid-back taproom is a welcome relief from the ubiquitous wood-grain-and-steel-stool style, with a shuffleboard, mismatched furniture and plenty of free pretzels. While they make gin, grappa and single-malt under the Sinister Distilling Company label, German-style lagers are the way to go here, all with super-crisp finishes thanks to their traditional horizontal lager tanks. Eric "Howie" Howard's brewery is best known for Wild Beaver, an amber lager that's crisp and balanced with a nice malt backbone. Deluxe recently signed with distributor Bigfoot Beverages so you'll soon start seeing the stuff around Portland.

Nearby: Tiny Albany actually has two breweries. You're not far from Calapooia Brewing (140 NE Hill St, Albany, 541-928-1931, calapooiabrewing.com), which is probably best known for its widely available chili beer.

by KRISTIN GRIFFIN

(Christine Dong)
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