Bunk’s Meatball sub with potato salad IMAGE: Matt D’Annunzio

Speeding through town at noon on a Saturday, you might think the shivering crowd outside the door of 621 SE Morrison St. was there for a soup kitchen; take a closer look, though, and you’ll realize Portland’s destitute don’t wear anywhere near that much North Face. No, these people are waiting for an $8 hero at Bunk Sandwiches. Meriwether’s vet Tommy Habetz and Nick Wood opened this breakfast-and-lunch counter, which shares a block with two bars and a boutique for strippers, in November, and the weekend crowds showed up immediately. These are some serious sandwiches, made with excellent meat and cheese on fine breads from Fleur de Lis Bakery, but finicky they are not. Big, bold flavors dominate regular offerings like the meatball parmigiano hero ($8), a hoagie roll overstuffed with three tender, almost creamy meatballs and drenched with spicy tomato sauce and melted cheese. The menu changes frequently; a recent visit introduced an excellent grilled mushroom sandwich with caramelized onions ($8) that left us craving a nap. Breakfast sandwiches, served all day, are equally sleep-inducing: The bacon, egg and cheese on a hard poppyseed roll ($5) is delicious, though anyone in a career less physically demanding than forestry might find it a bit too strong for morning. The same goes for a recent sausage biscuit with cheese ($5), a greasy patty of seasoned ground meat inserted in the flakiest biscuit I’ve had in PDX. Want even more food? The sides ($4), including red beans and rice and apple-cabbage slaw, are worth your attention. A final word of warning: Bunk’s exhaust system leaves much to be desired, and the restaurant fills with smoke during the lunch rush. Bring your inhaler, and be prepared to smell like cured meat all afternoon.