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April 28th, 2010 KELLY CLARKE | Bar Reviews
 

Stuck In Reverse

     
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IMAGE: vivianjohnson.com

Locals already swoon over Bo Kwon’s Koi Fusion Korean taco truck, but in March the cart debuted a “pop-up restaurant” called Koifusion@1 (1300 NW Lovejoy St., 867-8822) in the space that most recently housed SoLo, the club under the Pearl District OfficeMax. While Korean eats paired with taco culture makes sense, this basement bar does not. The funky grub is still good (ask for the spicy Korean fried chicken), and breezy cocktails like the Summer Fling—house-infused ginger-lime-cucumber vodka with fresh lemonade—are addictive. But the Koi crew has made little effort to reinvent the clunky space. With its scalloped concrete ceiling, wood-paneled walls and TV screens tuned to the NBA playoffs, it looks a budget bat cave. It’s far more fun to eat a K-taco in an asphalt lot than this tomb, even with the addition of booze.

 
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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