I'm usually loath to say a kind word about a certain baseball team in the Bronx, but George Steinbrenner is dead and I don't feel so good myself, so I'll grant that Pinstripes Bar and Grill (1937 SE 11th Ave., 234-7869) is as cozy a sports-watching atmosphere as I could ask from an establishment that pastes collages of Yankees memorabilia on the countertops. (Sample item: sheet music for the 1935 Lou Gehrig tribute song "I Can't Get to First Base With You.") New ownership has given dubious Ladd's Addition institution the Jolly Inn a much-needed scrubbing, adding a liquor license and a dozen flat-screens, but keeping the cheap tallboys (Rainier is $1.75 at all hours). The menu has Coney Island leanings; nachos come slathered in chili. The place actually feels eerily similar to NoPo's George's Corner, but quieter. It's a house where Ruth would drink. Except he's also dead.