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July 21st, 2010 12:00 am KELLY CLARKE | Food Reviews & Stories

Restaurant Guide 2009


You don’t come to this weathered West Burnside standby for fancy fusion entrees or kiss-your-ass service. You come for a giant helping of old-school Greek “opa”—complete with lemony hummus, sharable plates of tender braised lamb, oregano- and olive oil-rubbed roast chicken and shot after shot of sharp, anise-flavored ouzo. It’s all about tradition here at the Bakouros family’s 29-year-old Mediterranean taverna. Gorge yourself on sesame seed-sprinkled hard bread and giant plates loaded with crisp, deep-fried calamari and tart lamb-stuffed dolmathes. Save a single for the belly dancers—they come shake their sequin-covered goodies every Friday and Saturday. Yiamas!
Order this: The spanakopita, with its delicate layers of spiced spinach and feta is a phyllo-dough phenom.
Best deal: A titanic Alexis appetizer platter and a $22 bottle of piney Retsina wine (it tastes like lighter fluid, in a good way).
I’ll pass: The moussaka is a gummy, bland eggplant letdown.

  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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