Restaurant Guide 2008

You might have thought that when Apizza Scholls expanded into the space next door nearly two years ago the hour-plus waits would slim. You might have also thought that since chef-owner Brian Spangler and his crew no longer craft all of the 24-hour-fermented pizza dough by hand (they've finally purchased a mixer) the nightly dough shortages would cease. Well, think again. Apizza Scholls, known for 18-inch, gravity-defying, perfectly charred pizza—with attention from the likes of Anthony Bourdain and The New York Times—is as slammed as ever, slinging an average of 100 pies a night. Baked to 900-degree-pushing perfection six at a time, Apizza pies are delicious enough to burn the roof off your mouth repeatedly; restraint knows no friends here. Words to the wise: The original space isn't as loud as the addition, and you even get your own table.

IDEAL MEAL: Vegetable plate with grilled artichoke hearts, Fior di latte (buffalo milk mozzarella), semi-dried tomatoes and more; sausage and goathorn pepper pizza; bottle of the house red.

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