The Tuscan warmth of this Sellwood hotspot hasn't cooled despite new owners taking over in February '05 (the kitchen still prepares the recipes of the original owners, Sarah and Darryl Joannides). The front room's enoteca, or wine bar, lets several sippers tuck in, and reservations are taken so you'll find a seat more easily than in the old days. A trio of pasta dishes at $13.75 per person is the chef's choice (and a great choice indeed), packed with fresh flavor. In the summer, the penne with organic heirloom cherry tomatoes, arugula, olive oil, Parm and garlic is both simple and beautiful. And a more complex dish, like the wild mushroom risotto, earns its $16 price tag. The Florentine-style steak and a zuppa al forno (seafood stew with grilled bread) make this place feel like the Italy we imagine on the best vacation days. Don't forget the small-plate antipasti like panzanella, Italian salamis and cheeses, and the Caprese when the tomatoes are ripe.