In the early �90s when Assaggio opened, its signature style�a trio of pastas for the table�was a welcome innovation, introducing Portlanders to a world beyond �spaghetti� with canned tomato sauce. Assaggio�s cheery d�cor and menu, which changes according to seasonal ingredients, has not changed much over the years. The bruschette, pilled high with creamy cannelloni beans or diced portobellos and goat cheese are still hearty appetizers. But sadly something has gone wrong. Service is sloppy and pastas are seldom of a quality you couldn�t beat in your own kitchen. The seasonal puttanesca lacked the verve that marks this preparation. A lackluster chicken breast was rescued by a wrap of prosciutto, but baked cod arrived overcooked and flavorless. A superb collection of Italian wines and splendid homemade gelati and chocolate torte offer some redemption, but if Assaggio is to be more than a snappy wine bar, someone needs to rethink what they�re up to. (Originally reviewed 2/15/06.)