Housed in a low-slung house set back from busy Broadway, Baan-Thai serves mostly PSU students and restless diners seeking Thai cuisine with a little drama. Dishes like Volcano Chicken ($11, a game hen smothered in barbecue sauce and set aflame) upstage available-anywhere standards like pad Thai. Swallow your macho and order your food "mild"-the kitchen keeps the heat on even when your dish isn't literally on fire. (ED)