Both veterans and virgins of kimchi and bulgogi—not to mention serious meat eaters and vegetarians—can dine in harmony at this upscale Nob Hill outpost of Korean cuisine. Make a meal of a refreshing salad (carrots, avocados and cucumbers are dressed in light yet flavor-packed dressings) and one or two items from the long list of starters: pajeon—egg pancakes with scallions and seafood—or japchae, stir-fried sweet potato noodles with vegetables that are chewy (in a good way) and habit-forming. Hearty soups of meat, vegetables and seafood are clean and restorative, and a large variety of "traditional dishes" including kimchi stew and several versions of the ubiquitous bibimbop. Accompanying most entrees are nine tiny side dishes, including mild and spicy kimchis, pepper-spiced squid, sautéed spinach and fried vegetable patties.

IDEAL MEAL: Han Jun Shik—a prix fixe meal in which four side dishes are served along with a main course of the diner's choice, plus a sweet cinnamon-ginger drink and dessert.