Chef Kenny Giambalvo is an Italian-American from New York trained in classic French technique, but the focus on regional (and regionally popular) ingredients at Bluehour lets you know you're in Oregon. Think salmon, beets and lobster mushrooms. Many dishes on the constantly changing menu are classic and familiar, but the thoughtful combining of complementary elements keeps them interesting: Porchetta is served with a hunk of pork confit, just-picked beans and a meaty grilled cipollini; salmon tartare comes with avocado and housemade gaufrettes (potato chips). Like the food, the soaring, loftlike dining room is formal enough for a special occasion while still being comfortable and welcoming.
Order this: Melt-in-your-mouth porchetta is what pigs dream of being when they grow up.
Best deal: Prix fixe menu with salad, entree and dessert ranges from $30 to $35. Tack on an after-dinner sherry for four clams.
I'll pass: Salty risotto.