Restaurant Guide 2005

In warm weather you can eat under a shady tree, or retreat to one of a scant six tables. You'll spot regulars here, and even detect a spot of Italian. Caffe Allora is probably more a lunch than dinner place, but if you want a light supper you can enjoy a salad of smoky bresaola, fresh arugula and Parmesan, followed by a plate of delectable gnocchi bathed in an artery-clogging melange of cream cheese, Parmesan, Gorgonzola and mascarpone. Or you can try the sample plate of ravioli, comprising a couple each of spinach, mushrooms and cheese. But these shaped pastas are less good than the fettucini, especially a version served with eggplant. Soups are usually outstanding: I had a delectable carrot and corn soup, creamy and pungent. Such delights and a glass of red will get you out for considerably under $25. Caffe Allora is simple yet sophisticated, edgy enough to satisfy European types, moody in a low-key way that makes lingering feel natural. (RJP)