The heat lamps at this outside-only rib shack are pretty pointless in the middle of a blowing winter storm. Even in such cranky-making conditions, the barbecue here is worth putting the pedal to wet metal. Almost everything�toothsome ribs and hearty chicken, is smoked, then grilled, then drowned in a bath of sweet and spicy sauce�which has a nostril-tickling tanginess. Dinners ($11-$13) come with bread and two sides. Campbell's cornbread muffins are just by the book, so try the airy white bread instead to sop up the juices. (AV)