Ciao Vito: Restaurant Guide 2010

5-10 pm daily. $$ Moderate.
[ITALIAN] For people who are new to town—and if you’re younger than 35, odds are you’re a transplant—it’s easy to dismiss Alberta Street as a hippie bohemian playground. But go beyond Last Thursday and you’ll find plenty of relaxed, fancy-but-not-too-bougie restaurants like Ciao Vito. It’s a good bet to start with an appetizer—both the grilled-garlic bruschetta and crisp pork-and-beef meatballs are so tasty you’ll want to order another round—before tackling an array of entrees like bold cuts of meat (such as a giant 15-ounce Carlton Farms pork chop) and lighter fare like the house specialty polenta, topped with mushrooms and a cut of pork shoulder so juicy and fatty you’ll swear off bacon for a month. One piece of advice: Avoid sitting outside on a curbside table if possible, as the commotion from the street detracts from the delicious meal in front of you. MICHAEL MANNHEIMER.
Ideal meal: Polenta, sausage ragu.
Best deal: An order of spaghetti agli’olio runs for just $7 on the appetizer menu.