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October 19th, 2005 Johanna A. Droubay | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Restaurant Guide 2005

     
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Coming from a heritage of homey-ness (after all, the Family Supper sensation, another ripe project, started in the owners' living room), this trendsetting industrial-district eatery runs like a well-oiled machine. The servers—whose cheekbones, hairstyles and stylish clothes seem straight out of ReadyMade magazine—work together in perfect unison at a breakneck pace. But what really distinguishes this establishment is neither its chic aesthetic nor its prompt staff. The kitchen practices a "No Course Left Behind" policy, meaning entrees are as creative as apps, and pastas are as important as entrées. Every organic ingredient serves the dish as a whole while also maintaining its individual personality. Summer squash, for example, stays firm and sweet even when encased in housemade ravioli. And zucchini still stands for garden freshness once coated in buttermilk and semolina, then flash-fried. (JAD)

 
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