Criollo, a gilded bauble of a bakery opened last year by Melissa McKinney, bids to put some lust in the Beaumont neighborhood's prim heart. The baker's luscious danishes, cakes, muffins, scones, quiches and tarts are a sugary bacchanal. She coaxes every sweet, caramelized complexity from fruit and elaborate layers of bready goodness from flour. If there's a problem, it's that the glistening, glimmering fantasy objects in McKinney's cases make the immediate surroundings look even more bland. Hey-here's to escapism. (ZD)