Maybe it's the kitschy decor or those 40-ounce beers served tableside in a bucket of ice. Whatever it is, it's hard not to think of this Woodstock neighborhood favorite-and its too-cute staff-as lovable. The food here is strictly Southern: The best of it includes hush puppies ($3), fried chicken ($9-$10), and a meatloaf ($9) that would make your mother proud. It's not exactly the right place to eat if you're concerned about your arteries, although "healthy" items can be found in the sides-try the saucy greens ($4) and the weird-sounding cauliflower casserole ($4.50). But who needs arteries with a weekly special "loin of the week" ($14)? (KBC)