A soul-food staple that dropped off the radar when its original North Russell Street location changed hands a few years ago, Doris' reopened in a yellow house on North Williams Avenue. Judging by the sleepy feel of a recent lunch visit, the eating public hasn't quite found its way back. Word to the wise: If you love savory, massive piles of ribs ($7.25 lunch, $11.50 dinner), awe-inspiring greens ($3) and pungent fried okra ($3.50), you need to get down to this austere-but-welcoming embassy of Southern eating. (ZD)