February 17th, 2006 Jim Dixon | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Dish Review

     
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Seasonal foods from around the equator provide the theme for this new restaurant and lounge in the heart of the North Mississippi Avenue commercial district. The menu covers a lot of ground, from skewers of chicken flavored with green curry and served with mint chutney to tacos filled with garlic mashed potatoes. This mix-and-match approach carries some risk, but Equinox wisely restrains itself form pushing the fushion envelope, using the strong flavors of India, Southeast Asian, Latin American and even European cuisines to add punch to relatively straightforward cooking. A surprisingly good Intalo-Indian combination of squid linguine with tandoori-style shrimp and coconut milk typifies the approach: it’s basically a bowl of good pasta, cooked just right and tossed with the sauced shellfish. The grilled Caesar, an unexpected twist on the ubiquitous salad, was even better than the salad of spinach and mixed greens. (Originally reviewed 1/7/04.)
 
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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