This cavernous self-described Oriental specialties restaurant is a thoroughly authentic Chinatown diner the perfect place to fill your tummy with a tasty dim sum lunch or on the weekends with pre-club grub. And it doesn't get much grubbier in the best sense than greasy-cheesy crab puffs (10 for $4.95) or a steaming heap of fried Mandarin eggplant ($7.25 no rice). It's unclear whether the puffs contain actual crab—the crustaceans stewing in the doorway tank look very near death. Eighties soft rock and round paper lanterns overhead foul bathrooms and stained floors underfoot. Impossible not to love. (SMB)