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October 15th, 2008 Ethan Smith | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Restaurant Guide 2008

     
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This intimate, high-ceilinged Pearl space turns out simple, well-balanced Italian dishes built around local and seasonal ingredients. Fratelli’s lengthy menu spans antipasti, bruschette, salads, polenta and pasta, rounding out with meaty main courses and finally desserts—all of which vary depending on the latest harvest. Bruschetta with ricotta and peppers is saved from blandness by the anise-sweetness of fennel marmalade. Tossed with summer squash and goat cheese and a crisp shimmer of fresh mint, the potato gnocchi highlight the kitchen’s knack for flavor combinations. And Fratelli is at its best when flavors stay bright and distinct. A pork shoulder disappointed at a recent visit because the heirloom tomatoes, pancetta and arugula had been stewed until their tastes ran together, but a leg of lamb triumphed with caramelized onions and inventive pistachio aillade, which cut nicely through the brawny flavor of the meat.

IDEAL MEAL: Bruschetta with baked ricotta, crushed pepper and fennel marmalade; potato gnocchi with summer squash, goat cheese and fresh mint; grilled leg of lamb with balsamic caramelized onions and pistachio aillade.

 
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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