The moment you step inside this tiny diner, you'll feel like you've tapped your ruby slippers and left the Pearl behind. With bona fide comfort food like housemade white bread, BLTs ($5.50) and milkshakes ($3.95), Fuller's doesn't have much in common with its newbie, more upscale neighbors�and that's OK with us. The fish and chips ($7.50) is also delish, particularly because the fries are giant rectangular slabs of potatoes cooked to perfection. So find a seat at the counter (there are no tables at Fuller's) and eat 'til your blood pressure rises. It's well worth it. (LP)