A stroll past Genoa's modest abode on Southeast Belmont sparks curiosity: What lies behind those ever-closed aubergine-colored curtains? A glimpse of Genoa's tiny kitchen reveals a small staff laboring away long before the onset of the dinner hour. They're kneading dough for Tuscan-style bread, cutting fresh pasta or straining housemade ricotta in preparation for the evening's seven-course from-scratch feast. The restaurant's Italian-inspired cuisine runs the gamut from simple to sophisticated, from reserved to blissfully indulgent. Vitello tonnato, the tiny chilled veal antipasto course with tuna and anchovy aioli, suffered an air of prudishness. But the delicious pappa al pomodoro, lukewarm tomato soup positively drenched in olive oil, seemed a mortal sin. (JAD)