So you catch a rerun of Goodfellas and start thinking, "I gotta get some of that red sauce with all the meats, the one Paulie makes in prison." But you ain't in Jersey, so where are you gonna go? You're going to go to Gino's. The room, it's big and dark and real casual like, and if you've got to wait, hey, it's OK, they've got a big wine list, not too pricey, and pretty soon you've got the whole family at one big table, the kids mowing through the garlic bread. Yeah, maybe the waiter sometimes disappears for a long time, and the shrimp sautéed with garlic comes in a broth that kind of smells like bleach, and maybe you feel a little bad you can't taste no anchovy in the Caesar. But hey, it's big! And the polenta with the crumbly sausage is terrific, and the Chinook salmon? Now that's some tender fish. So what if the Grandma Jean's—that's what they call the red sauce with the pork ribs, stew beef and pepperoni—is more filling than delectable. The kids are gaga about the chocolate mousse in a malt glass full to the top, you're drinking nice Chianti, you got your elbows on the table... abbondanza. (NR)