Just inside Chinatown's ornate gate, roast ducks hang in the window of this neon-lit eatery. They are both delicious and the sole decoration in the room. But don't get hung up on decor, or the lack thereof—the food is cheap, authentic and damn good. The duck arrives in great hunks on the bone, crispy skin pulling back from moist flesh, nestled into noodles or floating in broth amid bok choy and dumplings, all for around $8 a plate. The barbecued pork is also worth nibbling, but steer clear of the egg noodles—they have the distinctive funk of aging Top Ramen. (ES)