The atmosphere at this hole-in-the-wall Chinatown joint—tired blue floors and downright exhausted Formica tables—isn't exactly showstopping, but Good Taste's extensive menu hits the spot. Order up excellent Chinese standards like wonton noodle soup ($4.95) and kung pao chicken ($7.95) along with lesser-known delights like a fragrant five-spice beef brisket pot ($7.95). Come hungry: These hearty portions prove your eyes are definitely bigger than your stomach. (AG)