The oh-so-'90s name doesn't inspire confidence, but lurking inside the clean, pleasantly generic facade is a first-rate Vietnamese restaurant. Unsurprisingly, the pho ($2-$6.45) is top-notch, a bowl fairly bursting with rice noodles and all manner of beef products swimming in a heady anise-scented broth. But do yourself a favor and peruse the rest of the impressive menu, which ranges from standbys like cool salad rolls ($3.50) to a heady chao tôm ($9)-minced shrimp and pork grilled on juicy sugar-cane skewers. (SL)