The surrogate mother of all sandwich places, run with warmth by Gretchen, the sort of idealized hausfräulein who'd launch a thousand children's eating disorders by making them tragically, smilingly, equate food with love. The sandwiches are intimidatingly generous, especially the Flagrant Delecti ($7.50), which overtaxes its poor French roll with meats, cheeses, pesto mayo and much, much more. Other sandwich specials are similarly decadent. You could, I suppose, choose to skimp, but this is hardly the place. (MK)