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February 17th, 2006 Ellen Fagg | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Cheap Eats 2005

     
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This tucked-away spot on the ground floor of a new Northwest Vaughn Street condo building could have lured hungry homebodies with coffee-shop grub, but its kitchen delivers more ambitious fare. Lunch and dinner standouts include a lively lime-and-avocado shrimp-cocktail appetizer ($6), a (what else but?) garlicky Caesar ($6) and a zesty Reuben sandwich ($8). A server proudly noted that the burgers ($7.50-$8.50) are made from beef raised by the owner's son in St. Helens. The cafe's walls, decorated with massive gears and machinery, show off the neighborhood's gritty side, while the saloon's working-class bread pudding ($4.50) is the superstar of the menu. Those warm layers of spongy bread laced with chocolate will create a gooey explosion in your mouth. Portions are ample, but this is still one Industrial-strength dessert you won't want to share. (EF)

 
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